Smart Moves Home Inspections, LLC
Smart Moves Home Inspections, LLC
Smart Moves Home Inspections, LLC
Residential Home Inspections
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My Blog
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Does it matter how high the chimney is?
| Posted on March 19, 2013 at 11:26 AM |
comments (121)
|
 The length of a
horizontal line drawn from the top of the opening of the chimney flue to the point at which that line touches
the roof surface should be ten feet or more. This height requirement is to assure that the chimney will develop
adequate draft. A "too short" chimney won't have a
tall-enough column of rising hot gases inside to develop a safe,
adequate draft. A chimney that is too short is unlikely to vent properly and it may also be a serious fire hazard to the building. Particularly with gas fired appliances, the lack of adequate draft for
any reason, including a chimney flue that is too short, can result in
improper combustion and the production of dangerous, potentially fatal
carbon monoxide gases. And the same inadequate draft that affects
combustion in the heater can increase the risk that the gas backdrafts
out into the buildings.NFPA 211 1.7.1 specifies:
An obvious fix for a chimney that is too short to meet the fire safety
clearances mentioned earlier is that must be extended above the roof for
fire safety.In some cases it is permitted (NFPA 211 1-7-2.) to use a draft inducer fan ("a
mechanical draft system of either forced or induced draft design") to
meet the draft requirements. There is a lot of good information on the web about this topic. However, be aware that your local jurisdiction may have precedence over national code. Before making repairs be sure to consult you local municipality. When buying a home, get it inspected! Sources-Inspectopedia.com, NFPA. |
How safe is aluminum wiring?
| Posted on February 21, 2011 at 8:43 AM |
comments (172)
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 Aluminum wiring, used in some homes from the mid 1960's to the early 1970's, is a potential
fire hazard. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, fires
and even deaths have been reported to have been caused by this hazard. Problems
due to aluminum wiring expansion, or arcing at the aluminum wiring connectors,
can cause overheating at connections between the wire and
devices (switches and outlets) or at aluminum wire splices. The connections can become hot enough
to start a fire without ever tripping a circuit breaker! CPSC research shows that "homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 are 55 times more
likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions"
than are homes wired with copper. "Post 1972" aluminum wire is also a concern. Introduction of the aluminum wire
"alloys" in 1972 time frame did not solve most of the connection failure problems. Aluminum wiring is still permitted and used for certain
applications, including residential service entrance wiring and
single-purpose higher amperage circuits such as 240V air conditioning or
electric range
circuits. The fire risk from single purpose circuits is much less than
for branch circuits. But it's not necessarily because of a "new alloy" as some folks
assert. It's because there are
enormously fewer connections (four or six rather than 30 or 40 per
circuit) and thus statistically a smaller chance of a connection
failure. These connections do still
burn up, as indicated by field reports. How to Repair Aluminum Electrical Wiring to Reduce the Hazards - Repair Alternatives & Choices Once the initial steps above have been addressed here are the choices for safe repair of aluminum wiring: Re-wire the Building replacing all aluminum branch circuit wiring with copper, as a "best repair method" for aluminum wiring, OR as a
next-best aluminum wiring repair method Use the special AMP (now TYCO) COPALUM connector and special tool to
connect short copper wires to every aluminum wire end in the building, reconnecting the copper to the
various devices (outlets, switches, lights) and splices.
This "copper pigtailing" procedure is performed by an electrician trained
and licensed by AMP or TYCO to use this COPALUM procedure.
The TYCO COPALUM connector method is described
is described at PIGTAILING USING AMP "COPALUM" CONNECTORS.
Typically this approach costs about half that of completely re-wiring a home with copper. |
Where does your house rank for RADON levels?
| Posted on November 15, 2010 at 1:29 PM |
comments (0)
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The EPA and the U.S. Geological
Survey have rated every county in the United States as Zone 1 to 3 for radon risk. Links to state maps with county by-
county risk levels can be found at www.epa.gov/radon/zonemap.html. Go here for great info specifically for Pennsylvanians. The EPA recommends that all homes
in Zone 1 counties be built with radon-resistant features,
which can be easily upgraded to a radon remediation system
if needed. Since homes in Zones 2 and 3 can also have
high levels, it is best to check with your state radon office
to see if they are aware of any local “hot spots.” According to the Surgeon General, Radon is the 2nd leading cause of Cancer in the US. Everyone should have their home tested and now is the best time. It is an easy, inexpensive, non-invasive procedure. Call to schedule for a radon test. |
Whats that outlet with buttons? I know you've seen them.
| Posted on November 10, 2010 at 7:57 AM |
comments (117)
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A
"GFCI" is a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter.  This is picture of an outlet version. Some other versions are breakers in the electric panel, separate plug-type, or stand alone. A ground fault circuit interrupter is an inexpensive electrical device that, if installed in
household branch circuits, could prevent over two-thirds of the
approximately 300 electrocutions still occurring each year in and around
the home. Installation of the device could also prevent thousands of
burn and electric shock injuries each year.
The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric
shocks Because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some
electrical fires and reduce the severity of others by interrupting the
flow of electric current. Where are they needed? General standards say within 6 feet of a water source, outdoors, unfinished basements, and garages. How many do you have? Get great info about GFCI's here. |
When was lead-based paint banned in the US?
| Posted on August 24, 2010 at 8:37 AM |
comments (74)
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 The United States government's Consumer Product Safety Commissionbanned lead paint in 1977. In an announcement dated September 2, 1977,
"The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) has culminated a
major regulatory proceeding by issuing a final ban on lead-containing
paint and on toys and furniture coated with such paint. This action was
taken to reduce the risk of lead poisoning in children who may ingest
paint chips or peelings."
If you think your home might have lead hazards, read on to learn about lead and some simple
steps to protect your family at epa.gov. Brad Smart Moves Home Inspections |