|Posted on February 6, 2014 at 3:46 PM||comments (0)|
Over time, all washing machine hoses will wear out. Roughly, the included rubber hoses will last 8-9 years. Cracks, blisters, bulges, drips can lead to costly repairs with the average claim reaching close to $6,000. $6,000 for a repair you don't even need to hire a plumber for! It is imperative to inspect laundry hoses regularly and upgrade hoses to a reinforced, steel-braided type. These replacement hoses are a low cost ($10-20) preventative action against costly repairs (not to mention upset neighbors that live below you) and they are EASY to install. Some really good information can be found here - DisasterSafety.org. Something I recommend on every inspection (along with a drip pan under the washer - especially if there is living space below the unit). This simple upgrade not only will save huge dollars but give you piece of mind. Also consider installing a single throw water shutoff valve AND USE IT! After every wash turn off the water to the hoses to relive the water pressure limiting the risk of failed rubber hoses.
|Posted on March 19, 2013 at 11:26 AM||comments (0)|
|Posted on May 9, 2012 at 12:36 PM||comments (0)|
There are many sources of roof staining and they vary in significance, from cosmetic to harmful to the roof.
As stated in Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction:
|Posted on January 19, 2012 at 1:51 PM||comments (0)|
Short answer - no. The right answer - it's in your best interest to get one. As with anything you purchase it is proper to do your due diligence. You wouldn't buy a used car without taking it to your mechanic first. So why not when you're buying a used home? A home inspection will give you a unbiased opinion by a third party professional on the current condition and give you tips on how to properly maintain your property. The reports are NOT enforceable, they are NOT code inspections, or appraisals. Keep in mind - just because there is a defect reported it does not mean the seller must repair it. It is an extensive report that documents hundreds of systems and subsystems in a home for your information only. Then, in most cases, after the inspection you can go back to the seller, with your fully loaded ammunition, and renegotiate the agreement of sale by receiving credits, repairs, or walking away. This is all for your benefit! The fee for the inspection will totally pay for itself with the money it will save you in unforeseen defects. So, do you need to get a home inspection...? I think you know the right answer. Check out this form created by the US Department of Housing.
|Posted on June 8, 2011 at 9:32 AM||comments (6)|
|Posted on April 25, 2011 at 10:28 AM||comments (0)|
|Posted on February 21, 2011 at 8:43 AM||comments (14)|
Aluminum wiring, used in some homes from the mid 1960's to the early 1970's, is a potential fire hazard.
According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, fires and even deaths have been reported to have been caused by this hazard. Problems due to aluminum wiring expansion, or arcing at the aluminum wiring connectors, can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices (switches and outlets) or at aluminum wire splices. The connections can become hot enough to start a fire without ever tripping a circuit breaker!
CPSC research shows that "homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than are homes wired with copper. "Post 1972" aluminum wire is also a concern. Introduction of the aluminum wire "alloys" in 1972 time frame did not solve most of the connection failure problems.
Aluminum wiring is still permitted and used for certain applications, including residential service entrance wiring and single-purpose higher amperage circuits such as 240V air conditioning or electric range circuits. The fire risk from single purpose circuits is much less than for branch circuits.
But it's not necessarily because of a "new alloy" as some folks assert. It's because there are enormously fewer connections (four or six rather than 30 or 40 per circuit) and thus statistically a smaller chance of a connection failure. These connections do still burn up, as indicated by field reports.
How to Repair Aluminum Electrical Wiring to Reduce the Hazards - Repair Alternatives & Choices
Once the initial steps above have been addressed here are the choices for safe repair of aluminum wiring:
Aluminum Wiring Repair Method No. 1: Re-wire the Building, Replacing All Aluminum with Copper Wire
Re-wire the Building replacing all aluminum branch circuit wiring with copper, as a "best repair method" for aluminum wiring, OR as a next-best aluminum wiring repair method
Aluminum Wiring Repair Method No. 2: Copper Pigtailing using the COPALUM Connector
Use the special AMP (now TYCO) COPALUM connector and special tool to connect short copper wires to every aluminum wire end in the building, reconnecting the copper to the various devices (outlets, switches, lights) and splices. This "copper pigtailing" procedure is performed by an electrician trained and licensed by AMP or TYCO to use this COPALUM procedure. The TYCO COPALUM connector method is described is described at PIGTAILING USING AMP "COPALUM" CONNECTORS. Typically this approach costs about half that of completely re-wiring a home with copper.
|Posted on November 24, 2010 at 10:46 AM||comments (0)|
|Posted on November 22, 2010 at 8:44 AM||comments (0)|
Don't get freaked out if your home inspection reveals mold! Mold is everywhere in the air we breath everyday. Some people react differently than others. Standards or Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) for airborne concentrations of mold, or mold spores, have not been set. Currently, there are no EPA regulations or standards for airborne mold contaminants.
For more information on mold, see the website at www.epa.gov/mold
Molds can be found almost anywhere; they can grow on virtually any organic substance, as long as moisture and oxygen are present. There are molds that can grow on wood, paper, carpet, foods, and insulation. When excessive moisture accumulates in buildings or on building materials, mold growth will often occur, particularly if the moisture problem remains undiscovered or unaddressed. It is impossible to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment. However, mold growth can be controlled indoors by controlling moisture indoors.
How do I get rid of mold? It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don't fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back
|Posted on November 15, 2010 at 1:29 PM||comments (0)|
The EPA and the U.S. Geological Survey have rated every county in the United States as Zone 1 to 3 for radon risk. Links to state maps with county by- county risk levels can be found at www.epa.gov/radon/zonemap.html. Go here for great info specifically for Pennsylvanians.
The EPA recommends that all homes in Zone 1 counties be built with radon-resistant features, which can be easily upgraded to a radon remediation system if needed.
Since homes in Zones 2 and 3 can also have high levels, it is best to check with your state radon office to see if they are aware of any local “hot spots.”
According to the Surgeon General, Radon is the 2nd leading cause of Cancer in the US. Everyone should have their home tested and now is the best time. It is an easy, inexpensive, non-invasive procedure. Call to schedule for a radon test.